King Joes Barbell Club

 Part A: 1.5" PVC will do the trick. You can skimp but my scientific 'feels-about-right' test at Home Depot told me anything less just wouldn't last. This is the cheapest thing on this list.

Part B: T joints. Like this:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pvc.html#tee

Part C: 90 deg elbows - Like this:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pvc.html#90

Part D: 45 deg joints - Like this:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pvc.html#45

Part E: Part C + 2 inches of Part A + Part D = Part E = 135 deg elbow

Part F: Spend the $5-$10 and get a PVC cutter - trust me. Plus it's fun to use. Like this:
http://www.google.com/products?q=pvc...tf-8&scoring=p

Before you read any more, please see my original posted photo and then refer to this super crude mspaint CAD impression. It should be enough for you to go on and start (and possibly finish!) this project. If you want more details, please proceed.

0. VERY IMPORTANT: DO NOT GLUE ANY PVC UNTIL EVERYTHING FITS AND YOU'RE COMPLETELY HAPPY WITH THE DESIGN. I have not glued mine together to this day.

0a. THIS DESIGN IS NOT SYMMETRICAL - so might want to read on. Design is symmetrical up to step 4.

1. Your rack might differ since you might have more plates/different sized plates to store so design your rack as such.

2. Begin by determining the critical distance labeled "Distance BP" on the drawing (measuring from OD of pipe, obviously) that would allow bumper plate to rest on the pipe without contact to the ground. Since it's 16 degrees outside and I'm all snuggled up with my laptop I'm going to be lazy and not measure the rack which is outside. Plus, it's fun to figure this stuff out! It's called DIY for a reason...

3. Start at the one end and work the the other by measuring your plates and doing some simple math. Keep in mind that 1" of PVC will nest into the inside of the each fitting. Also remember that the left and right end will not house any plates...(the left and right part of the front view that don't have the big red 45# plate) so the "Part A" on those can be made to be minimal dimension (2" minimum because of my previous statement)

4. Once you get the entire horizontal part done, here comes the REAL FUN! Rotate your T elbows (they still rotate cause you didn't glue them together remember?) so they're pointing towards the center of the rack. Up to now, your design should be symmetrical. That's about to change.

5. Cut a length of PVC about 4" longer than the radius of a bumper plate. We'll call this length of pipe "FIXED LENGTH PIPE"

5. Attach one end of the FIXED LENGTH PIPE to a T elbow. Attach the other end of the FIXED LENGTH PIPE to the 90 deg portion of the 135 deg Elbow.

6. You now need to cut a length of pipe that goes between the opposite T elbow and the 45 deg portion of the 135 deg elbow. That's the fun part - because the T elbows are still mobile, you just have to align the T elbows such that the 45 deg portion is directly parallel to the blank T elbow. Err on the side of caution and add 1" to whatever you measured cause you can always cut it shorter. This is the LENGTH X PIPE and should be the last piece you cut. Once this piece is inserted, it takes away the last degree of freedom away from the structure so the T joints won't rotate anymore.

If you're here the rest should be self explanatory. Mine is now painted flat black and looks semi presentable.